Leaving Los Muertos the next morning we were sure to enjoy some northerly winds to push us all the way to Cabo San Lucas, but, the wind has a way of finding us and blowing head on no matter which way were going sometimes. So motor we did all day and all night and the wind just kept getting stronger as we approached Cabo San Lucas in the dark. Our normal cruising speed of 5+ knots was reduced to 2 -3 knots with 25 – 30 knots of wind and pounding seas spraying salty mist all over pummeled us for hours doubling the time to go the last 30 miles. We made it midday even though we could see our destination at first light and dropped our anchor for a much needed rest.
But rest would have to wait, we needed to find motor oil and gear oil, filters and a special tool to evacuate the oils from the engines and sail drives. That was Saturday walking miles around the town until we accumulated the things we needed and back at the boat we flopped into bed. Sunday in Sin City South aka Cabo turned out perfect with the wind dying and the seas lying flat, the sun rose and soon the beaches were full of sun worshipers and load booming music interrupted constantly by obnoxious DJs. While that was happening on the beach, we lay at anchor a hundred yards off-shore and begin the process of changing our oils in each engine and each sail drive. A tourist on a kayak paddled over, Dan from New Mexico, a career Army officer, who said he just had to admire our Cat. Dan was about to buy a Cat, a Gemini 105, himself up in Massachusetts and sail it down to Norfolk where he’ll be stationed this summer. When complete later that afternoon we (Dan joined us after returning his kayak and swimming out to the INNcredible from the beach – folks looked on in disbelief as he swam way beyond anywhere reasonable) took the dinghy out to a special rock known for its schools of fish to do some snorkeling. The water was downright chilly, even the locals complained; it was 69 degrees in May! Those rocks at Land’s End are spectacular and I must have taken 30 shots each sun-up, sundown and in between.
Cabo is known for its nightlife of which I have zero interest no matter how old I am; but, Andrew’s interested and so we took the dinghy in. Getting beyond the ‘strip’ I walked quite a few blocks not remembering exactly where it was to the old Plaza where we found a band playing in the gazebo and locals enjoying Sunday evening. 15 years or so before Diana, Katie and Molly and I found a fun old restaurant called Mi Casa right off the Plaza. That was my mission this time as a treat for our success in changing oils. Homemade tortillas, bright colorful old Mexican décor, Margaritas of course and a good menu, the trick to getting in without a reservation is to show up before 6pm. By the time we enjoyed our meal the place was packed with a line. Just inside the front door is a maze of rooms showcasing all over its walls handicrafts, each room is themed with a different collection like those funny Dias de Los Muertos characters, crosses, hearts, stuff animals, etc, wonderful stuff but a bit pricey. And nobody uses Peso only Dollars on their price tags probably because of sticker shock – 10,000 pesos for a figurine for example instead of $806 but that’s shocking too.
Crossing the street into the old Plaza the band had stopped but a mime was performing. I tried to stand to the side inconspicuously but sure enough within a minute that mime’s eyes looked my way, eyes widened, big smile grew wider, hands go up and he points my way so everyone can see that Santa is in town. I just can’t hide not even in May.
Dan had joined us for dinner and now he wanted to show us the town as he knows it from being here for the week before. We obliged and that’s the end of this story.